Reducing
Yard Trimming in the First Place
Composting
Organic Gardening
Benefit of Compost
Using Compost
Worms
Mulching
Grasscycling
Composting Demonstration Gardens
"In our every deliberation, we must consider the impact of our
decisions on the next seven generations."
the Iroquiois'
Great Law of Peace
Reducing Yard Trimmings
in the First Place
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. The three R's of the 90's. Before we reuse and recycle our yard trimmings, much can be done to reduce the generation of these materials in the first place. Fortunately, the landscaping techniques that reduce the amount of yard trimmings produced, also reduce the amount of water consumed.
Limit Lawn Size
Lawns are thirsty, time consuming, and generate a considerable amount of
clippings. Plant a lawn only where it will be used for play or entertaining.
In the front yard, consider replacing the unused lawn with a creative arrangement of shrubs, trees, ground covers and hardscapes (patios, walkways, mulched planting beds, etc.).
Mini-spray Sprinkler 
Irrigate Efficiently
Over-watering promotes rapid growth, generating more yard clippings.
Over-watering is also a common cause of lawn and plant disease. Use water-efficient
irrigation equipment, such as drip and low output sprinkler heads, and water each plant
according to its specific needs.
Use Mulches Around Trees and Shrubs
A couple inches of mulch will deter weeds and reduce evaporation. The best
place to find mulch materials is in your own yard. Use shredded yard trimmings, compost or
leaves.
Plant Water-Efficient and Low-Maintenance Vegetation
Water-efficient plants tend to grow slower and require less maintenance (i.e.,
pruning). There are many lovely, colorful plants available. Plants should be chosen whose
size at maturity is appropriate for a particular site.
Improve Soil
A good soil is very important to the success of water-efficient plants. The
best way to improve either a sandy or clay soil is by adding organic amendments, and the
best place to get these amendments is from your own compost pile.
Limit Fertilization:
Excessive applications of fertilizer - particularly high nitrogen fertilizer -
promote vigorous growth and increased water use. Moderation is the answer.
Plan and Design
When planning the landscape, give plants enough growing space, otherwise plants
may have to be severely pruned or removed in the future. Also leave space for compost
piles and brush chipping.
Prune Conservatively
Observe how your trees, shrubs and hedges respond to pruning. If the plant
consequently throws out vigorous sprouts or heavy new growth, you probably trimmed too
much or at the wrong time. Most pruning should only be to remove dead or damaged limbs.
Research the pruning requirements of each specific plant.
"Never doubt that a group of thoughtful committed citizens can change the world: indeed it`s the only thing that ever has."
Margaret Mead
The compost pile is really a teeming microbial farm. Microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi, are naturally present on food and yard trimmings added to the pile. These organisms decompose organic materials into rich, earthy-smelling organic matter. Earthworms, centipedes, beetles, millipedes and other organisms are also involved in the decomposition process.
There are many different methods of composting. The type and amount of material you have to compost, and the amount of time you can devote to it, will determine the system that is best for you.
Bacteria & Fungi
Hot composting is the quickest method and is good for composting large amounts of material. This method depends on heat loving and heat gernerating bacteria. In order for these bacteria to thrive, the pile should be of correct size, have the proper temperature, and have the proper balance of food, water and air. If these conditions are met, the microorganisms will raise the temperature of the pile to 140° F or more, hot enough to burn your hand! The heat from this rapid decomposition is enough to kill most weeds and disease-causing organisms.
The slow composting method is largely the same but is for people who can devote less time and attention to the process. Decomposition takes longer because conditions aren't optimal for the fast-acting, heat-loving bacteria. Bacteria and fungi that function at mild temperatures are the primary decomposers here.
Materials to Use
Just about anything that was once alive can be composted. All living things are made up of large amounts of carbon (C) combined with smaller amounts of nitrogen (N). The microorganisms in your compost pile will work quicker if fed a diet of 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen (30:1).
It helps to think of materials high in nitrogen as "greens," and carbon-rich materials as "browns." Grass clippings, manure, food scraps, and fresh garden trimmings are examples of greens. Dry leaves, straw, wood chips, nut shells, and sawdust are examples of browns. A good guide to get the right balance of greens to browns is to use roughly half browns and half greens when building your pile.
A pile that is too high in browns will stay cool and sit a long time without breaking down. A pile too high in greens can get slimy and have a foul odor.
Greens (nitrogen-rich materials) Browns (carbon-rich materials)
Grass clippings Dry leaves
Green weeds Straw, twigs
Garden trimmings Wood chip
Manure Corn stalks
Coffee grounds Dry weeds
Kitchen scraps Nut shells
Sawdust
Materials Not to Use:
Preparing the Materials
The more surface area the microorganisms have to work on, the faster the materials will decompose. Chop up large kitchen scraps into smaller pieces. Cut or bruise yard trimmings with a shovel or machete, or put them through a chipper or shredder.
Some materials may be run over with a rotary lawn mower. The harder or the more woody the tissues, the smaller they need to be chopped.
Bins
Backyard composting can be done in homemade bins, store-bought bins, or in an open pile without a bin. The ideal size of the pile or bin is one cubic yard (3' x 3' x 3'). Multiple piles or bins are recommended for different stages of composting.
The benefits of using a bin are they can help the pile retain moisture, they help to achieve the optimum pile dimensions, and some people find them more attractive than an open pile. An open pile, on the other hand, is cost-free and is very easy to turn.
Homemade bins can be constructed out of many materials such as wire mesh, scrap wood or pallets, a combination of wood and wire, or concrete blocks. A barrel composter can be built out of a 55 gallon barrel, with holes and a loading door cut out. Enclosed containers should have slits for air to enter. Bins can have one, two or more compartment for compost in different stages of decomposition.
There are many pre-made compost bins on the market. Plastic bins with lids help the contents of the bin stay damp by reducing evaporation by recycling water that condenses on the interior of the lid. Plastic bins should be thick and durable so they won't crack in the sun.
Place the pile or bin in a shady location out of the wind to reduce evaporation, and locate it over soil so water can drain down and decomposing organisms can come up. Consider locating an open pile in the corner against a block wall - this gives you two "sides" and will help reduce water loss.
A cubic yard is the minimum size of a hot compost pile.
 |
 |
 |
| Barrel composter | Concrete block bin | Multiple-bin Unit |
 |
 |
 |
| Wire mesh bin | Wood & Wire bin | Compost Heap |
Finished compost should look dark, should crumble
easily in your hand and have a fresh, earthy smell.
Making Compost
In a hot compost pile, enough materials are added to create a 3' x 3' x 3' pile all at once . Piles smaller than 3 feet cubed will have trouble holding heat, while piles larger than 5 feet cubed don't allow enough air to reach microorganisms at the center.
Alternate layers of green and brown materials. Begin with a thick layer coarse, bulky material, such as sunflower stalks or flowers, to allow air to circulate in the pile. Then layer greens and browns and mix the layers together.
When adding food scraps, try to place them in the active center of the pile, and always cover them with a thick layer of dry materials to avoid attracting flies or critters.
Spray the materials with water as you build the pile. Continue mixing greens and browns until the pile is 3-4 feet high, and then do not add more materials.
In one to three days, the temperature in the pile should rise considerably - a sign that the microorganisms are busy!
After a few days to a week, the temperature will drop, a sign that conditions are less optimal for the decomposing organisms, and the pile needs to be turned and moistened again.
Turning releases heat and brings in fresh oxygen to the microbes. If a moveable compost bin is being used, remove it and place it next to the pile, and move the compost into it with a pitchfork. Similarly, if you are using an open pile turn the material over into a new pile. You can also just "fluff" the pile with a pitchfork to add oxygen. If you're using more than one bin, fork the compost into the next bin. As you turn it, move the drier outer materials to the active center of the pile.
Limiting moisture the biggest mistake that people make! The composting material should be as moist as a well wrung-out sponge. This is rather wet, especially in our dry climate. If you've got an automatic irrigation system, consider hooking your compost pile up with a micro spray head. A layer of straw, plastic or carpet scraps on top of the pile helps keep its outer edges moist. But don't go overboard. If the pile is soggy or emits a foul, ammonia-like odor, it is too wet. Add dry ingredients, fluff the pile, and let it dry out.
Once you've turned and watered the pile, you've made the conditions good once more for the microorganisms, and the temperature should rise again, though probably not to as high a temperature as the initial buildup. This process should be repeated several times, turning about once every 7-10 days, until the temperature ceases to rise significantly.
At this point most of the readily-available nutrients have been consumed by the microorganisms, and you should have a dark, rich compost, with very little of the original materials recognizable. Most batches of finished compost will have some materials that haven't broken down enough. A sifter with a 1/2" mesh is good for screening out these materials, which can then be returned to the compost pile or used as mulch.
Its best to let the sifted compost sit for a week or two for final "curing" before use. Don't let it sit too long though, especially where it will dry out, or it can lose many of its valuable nutrients and qualities.
In a slow compost pile, materials are added as they are generated, rather than all at once, and the high temperatures of a hot pile may not be reached. The pile should be turned as often as possible, ideally once a week. Don't worry though, the materials in your pile will eventually compost even if never turned. Turning merely speeds up the process.
Continue adding materials to the bin, mixing the greens and browns, until it is full. The materials will reduce significantly in volume as the composting process takes place. If the pile is never completely turned, the compost on the bottom of the pile will mature first. Some bins have a bottom opening to harvest this finished compost. Others require the bin to be pulled up over the mature compost for harvesting.
If you don't have a "continuous feed" system, where you are regularly adding materials to the top and pulling the mature compost out of the bottom, it is best to have more than one composting bin or pile. This way you can eventually stop adding materials to one bin and allow everything to decompose until finished.
Organic gardening is the art of raising food and other plants without the use of petrochemical pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers.
Managing Pests
The garden is part of a complex ecosystem in which plants, animals and insects interact on many levels. When you try to eliminate one particular weed or insect, your actions also affect other living species. Pesticides can kill bees and other helpful insects, birds, and earthworms, and contaminate water supplies.
There are many effective strategies for preventing and minimizing pest damage without using toxic chemicals. Keep in mind however, that the complete elimination of pest damage is not realistic or even desirable.
Fertilizing Organically
Chemical fertilizers gradually kill off the biological activity in the soil and ruin its structure. Eventually, few organic nutrients remain, leaving crops completely dependent on fertilizer. Chemically dependent plants in turn have lowered resistance to insects and disease.
Fundamental to organic gardening is the building of healthy organic matter in the soil through the use of such materials as compost and manure.
High quality compost is composed largely of humus, a fragrant, nutrient-rich material that creates and supports the biological processes in the soil. And a healthy, living soil results in improvements in all aspects of plant growth and performance.
Compost is considered a soil conditioner, rather than a fertilizer, but it can contain a good range of plant nutrients. Of special importance are the micronutrients present in the compost. They are needed in small doses by plants, yet micronutrients are often absent from commercial fertilizers. Further, the nutrients in compost are released slowly at a rate which the plants can use best. Compost use is a major tool in the creation and preservation of soil fertility.
By improving the health and balance of the soil, compost creates an environment that aids plants in resisting many disease, insect and weed pressures. Compost adds organic matter to the soil, which improves soil texture and structure. This helps make clay soils less compact and better drained and helps sandy soil hold valuable nutrients and water.
Compost helps control erosion, controls pH, supports essential bacteria, stops nutrient loss through leaching, and acts as a buffer against toxins in the soil.
Finished compost is dark, crumbly, and has a fresh earthy smell. following are some common uses of compost:
"The nation that destroys its soil destroys itself."
Franklin D. Roosevelt
Store kitchen scraps in a container with a
tight-fitting lid until ready to add to the compost bin.
Worm bins (also known as vermicomposting systems) are simply dark, closed boxes which employ redworms, moist shredded newspaper (or other bedding material) and food scraps. If the correct environment is maintained, the worms will thrive and continuously produce worm castings, a high quality soil amendment.
Red Worms
Materials to Use:
Feed your worms kitchen scraps, excluding meat, bones, fatty foods and dairy products. Yard trimmings can also be fed to worms depending upon the size of your worm bin.
Setting Up the Worm Bin:
1. Locate the worm bin where it won't get hot above 80° F and where there is plenty of ventilation. Keep the bin dark so the worms stay near the surface. The worm bin should create no odors, so a convenient place for the bin is the garage or patio.
2. Fill the bin with bedding, such as thinly shredded newspaper or corrugated cardboard, manure or brown leaves. Immerse the bedding materials in water until thoroughly wet and then wring out excessive water. If fresh manure is used, it should be leached in this manuer for several days.
3. Add redworms. The amount of worms necessary varies with the volume of food scraps generated. Use about two pounds of worms for a two person household, four pounds for a four to six person household. Feed your new worms manure or coffee grounds for a few weeks to build up the population.
4. Feed the worms as regularly as is convenient, rotating the placement of the scraps throughout the worm bin. Chopping the scraps into smaller pieces will decrease the time it takes the worms to break them down. Bury the scraps with a small amount of bedding (an inch or so). Use a garden digging fork to avoid killing worms. Add only as much food as the worms seem able to handle.
5. Keep the worm's environment moist but not soggy. If the bin attracts flies, it may have become too acidic. Sprinkle powdered limestone (calcium carbonate - do not use slaked or hydrate lime!) into the bin to neutralize the acidity.
6. In two to four months (depending upon the size of the materials added), the worms will have turned the wastes and bedding into a dark, rich humus material known as worm castings. To harvest the castings, move the worms to one side of the bin and add new bedding to the empty half. For the next month or two, bury food scraps in the new bedding only. The worms will migrate to the new side. Harvest the finished compost and add more bedding to the bin.
A second method of harvesting is to remove the top layer of material, which should contain the most recently added scraps and most of the worms, and then harvest the finished compost beneath.
Worm Box
Containers
Use a container with small ventilation holes on the bottom and sides. The bin should either have a tight fitting lid or be covered with black plastic to keep out light. You can use shallow wooden boxes of any length or width, but no more than one foot deep, and no less than eight inches deep.
The bigger your household, the bigger the bin you'll need. Generally, one square foot of surface is required for every pound of food scraps to be composted per week. Weather-stripping on the lid will help out flies. Sticky substances, such as TangleFoot, can be spread around the base of the bin if ants are a problem.
"It may be doubted whether there are many other animals which have played so important a part in the history of the world as the lowly earthworm."
Charles Darwin
In two to six months the worms will have turned the food and bedding into a dark, rich humus material known as worm castings.
For worms and worm composting kits look in the classified section of gardening magazines or call us at 805/648-9226.
Mulching involves grinding yard trimmings and applying them directly to soil surfaces without the breakdown of the material by microorganisms.
Materials to Use:
Most yard debris is suitable for mulching. Non-woody materials (greens) are best in flower and vegetable gardens because they break down quickly and can then be turned under without competing with plants for the nitrogen in the soil. If fresh grass clippings are used, use layers thinner than one inch.
Woody yard trimmings and leaves (carbon-rich browns) can also be used, but should be pulled aside when tilling, or balanced by adding a high nitrogen source such as bloodmeal when turning them under. Shredded woody materials make excellent paths and play areas. Avoid mulching with plant materials recently treated with herbicides.
Mulches are materials used on top of the soil to suppress weeds, hold moisture, prevent erosion and provide an attractive ground cover.
| Chipping Tools: Machete Lawn Mower Electric Shredder Gas 5 H.P. Shredder Commercial Shredder (8+H.P.) |
|
Mulching Yard Debris:
Mulching Yard Debris
1. Yard trimmings up to 1/8 inch diameter can be mulched by running over them with a rotary mower - a mulching mower or attachment will perform best. This is best managed by blowing the materials against a wall.
2. Chippers and shredders for home use can be purchased. Shredders are best for brush, leaves and stalks; chippers are required for tree and shrub branches. Many machines have both shredding and chipping capabilities.
3. Chippers and shredders can be rented from many rental stores and home improvement centers, by the hour or day.
Grasscycling is the natural recycling of grass clippings by leaving them on the lawn when mowing. Successful grasscycling requires only the kind of attention all lawns should have on a regular basis.
Grasscycling:
1. Remove excessive thatch before leaving clippings on the lawn. Although 1/2 inch of thatch is no problem, a thick layer will keep clippings from reaching the soil.
2. Mow when your grass is dry and at the upper recommended cutting level for your type of turf: 1 inch for Bermuda or other fine-leaved subtropical grasses and 3 inches for cool-season turfs such as fescues and ryes.
3. A sharp blade and frequent mowing mean finer clippings that will decompose
quickly. A mulching mower, or a mower with a mulching attachment, is preferable. 
4. Avoid over-fertilizing your lawn. If it becomes too dense with growth, your clippings won't reach the soil to decompose.
You may choose to collect clippings every third time you mow, or every other time. If you only collect your clippings occasionally, recycle them as a mulch in planting beds or add them to the compost pile.
Grasscycling increases biological activity near the soil surface, resulting in a healthier lawn.
Composting Demonstration Gardens
Visit the following demonstration gardens to see composting bins and learn more:
The art of composting is really an art of living, a conscious decision to give back to the earth that which we take.
e-mail
Ventura County for
questions or more info...
